Crisp Falafel

Deep-green chickpea-and-herb falafel with a crisp sesame crust and tender centre, made correctly from soaked dried chickpeas.

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Falafel needs raw soaked chickpeas, not canned ones. Their starch binds the mixture while abundant herbs keep the centre green; chilling and a measured oil temperature prevent crumbling or greasiness.

Ingredients

• 500 g Dried chickpeas (soaked 18 to 24 hours, never canned)
• 1 medium Onion (roughly chopped)
• 6 Garlic cloves
• 60 g Fresh parsley (stems and leaves)
• 60 g Fresh coriander (stems and leaves)
• 2 tsp Ground cumin
• 2 tsp Ground coriander
• 2 tsp Fine salt
• 0.5 tsp Black pepper
• 0.25 tsp Cayenne pepper (optional)
• 1.5 tsp Baking powder
• 3 tbsp Sesame seeds
• 1.5 litres Neutral frying oil (approximately)
• 200 ml Tahini sauce (to serve)

Step-by-step method

1. Cover dried chickpeas with at least three times their volume of cool water and soak for 18 to 24 hours. They should split when pressed but remain raw; drain and dry very thoroughly.
2. Pulse chickpeas, onion, garlic and herbs in batches until the mixture resembles coarse couscous and holds when squeezed. Scrape the bowl often; do not blend into wet paste.
3. Mix in cumin, coriander, salt, pepper and optional cayenne. Cover and refrigerate for 30 minutes so moisture distributes and the mixture firms.
4. Heat oil in a deep heavy pan to 175°C, filling the pan no more than halfway. Stir baking powder and sesame into the mixture only when the oil is nearly ready.
5. Shape a test falafel with damp hands and fry for 3 to 4 minutes. If it breaks, pulse 2 tablespoons mixture finer and mix it back in; if dense, loosen with 1 tablespoon water.
6. Shape remaining mixture into 24 compact balls or discs. Fry 5 or 6 at a time for 3 to 4 minutes, turning once, until deep brown outside and hot, green and tender inside.
7. Drain on a wire rack and let the oil return to 175°C between batches. Serve immediately with tahini, salad and pita; never leave hot frying oil unattended.