Sindhi Biryani

Spicy Sindhi chicken biryani layered with potatoes, tangy yoghurt masala, mint and partially cooked basmati rice, then finished on dum.

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Sindhi biryani is sharper and more aromatic than many mild biryanis. The rice and masala are prepared separately, layered while both are hot, and steam-finished so the grains remain distinct.

Ingredients

• 500 g Aged basmati rice (rinsed and soaked for 30 minutes)
• 1 kg Bone-in chicken pieces (skin removed)
• 400 g Potatoes (peeled and cut into large chunks)
• 100 ml Neutral oil or ghee
• 3 large Onions (thinly sliced)
• 2 tbsp Ginger-garlic paste
• 4 medium Ripe tomatoes (chopped)
• 250 g Plain yoghurt (whisked)
• 3 tbsp Sindhi biryani masala
• 1 tsp Kashmiri chilli powder
• 8 Dried plums (rinsed; optional)
• 4 Green chillies (slit)
• 30 g Fresh mint (roughly chopped)
• 30 g Fresh coriander (roughly chopped)
• 2 tbsp Lemon juice
• 3 tsp Fine salt (divided, plus for rice water)
• 6 Green cardamom pods
• 6 Cloves
• 1 5 cm Cinnamon stick
• 2 Bay leaves
• 80 ml Warm milk (mixed with saffron or yellow food colour; optional)

Step-by-step method

1. Rinse the basmati until the water is nearly clear, then soak it for 30 minutes. Drain gently. Bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil with 2 teaspoons salt, half the cardamom, cloves, cinnamon and one bay leaf.
2. Heat the oil in a heavy lidded pot. Fry the onions over medium heat for 10 to 12 minutes until deep golden. Remove half with a slotted spoon and spread them on a plate so they stay crisp.
3. Add the remaining whole spices and ginger-garlic paste to the pot for 45 seconds. Add chicken and 1 teaspoon salt, raise the heat, and brown for 6 to 8 minutes until the outside loses its raw colour.
4. Add tomatoes, biryani masala and chilli powder. Cook for 6 minutes until the tomatoes soften. Lower the heat and add yoghurt a spoonful at a time, stirring after each addition, then add potatoes and dried plums.
5. Cover and simmer the chicken masala for 18 to 22 minutes, stirring twice, until the chicken reaches 75°C and the potatoes are almost tender. Uncover and reduce until the masala is moist but no watery liquid remains.
6. Meanwhile, add the drained rice to the boiling spiced water. Boil uncovered for 5 to 7 minutes. Bite a grain: the outside should be soft while the centre still feels firm. Drain immediately so it does not overcook.
7. Stir half the mint, coriander, green chillies and lemon juice into the chicken. Level the masala, spread the rice over it without pressing, then top with reserved onions, remaining herbs, chillies and optional coloured milk.
8. Cover very tightly, using foil beneath the lid if necessary. Cook on the lowest heat for 20 minutes, placing an old flat pan underneath if your burner is strong. Turn off the heat and leave covered for 10 minutes.
9. Open away from your face. Lift from the bottom with a wide spoon and turn only a few sections so the white and masala-coloured rice remain separate. Serve with raita and kachumber.